The Barcelona-based, German-Persian designer Boris Bidjan Saberi delivered a Spring/Summer 2017 collection filled with strong visuals (including his signature layering and play on volumes) and a rather intense tribal militancy. It was borderline “Mad Max” apocalyptica, and yet it offered a boldly attractive balance of looks: Bright yellow softened darker browns and other earthier hues like ochre and sand. As we’ve already seen with several menswear designers this season, outerwear has played an immense role with SS17 collections, and Saberi certainly wasn’t about to miss out on his chance to send out his own variations onto the runway during Men’s Paris Fashion Week. In a range of fabrics from waxed cotton to leather, he presented sleeveless trenches, thermo-sealed canvas parkas and several other architectural jackets and coats. The overall effect felt entirely natural and at ease. The most peculiar moments came in the form of face masks (for aesthetic purposes only) and corset-like influences throughout several vests and jackets; though odd, they were unexpected and, actually, really cool. Maybe we’ll all be wearing corsets in the future — or at least we all will if Saberi has anything to say about it.
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