A foray into the world of the underdog, James Hock revels in the fight for his Fall/Winter 2016 season. London-based but Malaysian-born, Hock is a bit of an urbane designer. Studied in London, Malaysia as well as Australia, Hock is best known in the emerging scene for his, “new basics,” a series of unconventional pieces infused with juxtaposition and contradiction.
Immediately, Hock’s fascination with authentic militaria is apparent. Various types of camo prints are quilted together in a patchwork fashion across dresses and wraps. Hock explained, “the idea that, during periods of war, luxuries such as fabric [were] limited, so making the most of the materials you have [at] hand is essential.” In this, Hock plays with the concept of functionalism without actually adhering to it. Deriving his aesthetics from war-stricken feasibility, the actual garment of a camo-quilted midi dress is a testament to the extravagance of what is known as, “fashion.” This interplay of idea versus reality is even more evident in the dress constructed almost entirely of camo-netting. It’s intriguing to see how a material intended for concealment makes such an overt statement when taken out of context, into the fashion world.
Hock’s quilted techniques looked quite chic in all-black textures. Made from vinyl and leather among other fabrics, the difference in finish and hue is striking especially when arranged in such a modular format. As for the, “new basics,” that the James Hock brand is built on, they were the most profitable of all. The charcoal tie-front sweatshirt dress and drop-shoulder turtlenecks in dove grey really encapsulate the brand best. For younger customers, these will be the new basics that can be cycled through their endless wardrobes. James Hock delivers: both in high-fashion extravagance and wearable design.
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