A welcome ode to the illustrious Edward Scissorhands, this collection is what would’ve been had the Tim Burton character decided to pursue a career in avant-garde fashion. In actuality, the macabre Copenhagen Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017 collection is the product of Barbara I Gongini. Captivated by deconstruction, the Faroese designer took to supple leathers and body-conscious jersey to showcase her version of the man with scissor hands.
Haphazard asymmetry and undone silhouettes were key to Gongini’s fantasy. Exposed threads translated a sense of skewed whimsy while draping was kept simple and intuitive. We saw a variety of neckpieces made of layered cords and plastic fragments, the perfect accessory to accompany billowing wrap tunics and knotted trousers. Cut in airy fabrics, Gongini’s creations seemed to be made of smoke, wafting through the air with every step. But it was her sculptural trenchcoats in solid navy that really stole the show. Wrapped immeasurably on the model’s waifish figure, it was a piece that really held its own: belted sleeves with pin-tuck detailing, angled hem and lopsided collar. Dark and melancholy, Barbara I Gongini excelled at placing her garments within a particular frame of reference — one that is instantly recognizable and fondly recollected.
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