Vintage Values: Mario Keine Graduate Collection

By Carmen Iniesta on June 18, 2016

People love fashion. We peruse blogs, magazines and media outlets for the latest sartorial news, and stalk retail sites for instant online purchases. But do we honestly value what we order amid the hustle? To rekindle the appreciation for a piece of clothing during a time where closets are recycled and re-stocked constantly, Mario Keine took to the past by merging Victorian trends and vintage fabrics in his graduate menswear collection. From his studies in Düsseldorf, the German designer already possesses a romantic air of an earlier time. The city was once the fashion capital of Germany, now obscured by Berlin’s shadow. Graduating from the Düsseldorf Fashion Academy Design Department, Keine might just be able to steer attention back to the Westphalian city.

Describing his Fall/Winter 2016 Graduate collection, “Back Forward,” is difficult since each outfit puts the senses into overdrive. Perhaps the best word is juxtaposition. There is a solid foundation of layering: various footwear shapes, cropped corduroy trousers, knotted shirting, sleeveless vests and oversized blazers. As for color, it was predominantly a neutral palette with shades of tan and mustard allowing for louder prints, like houndstooth and florals, to take over.

However, describing the collection as “overwhelming” or “over-the-top,” is too quick and crude a statement. Instead the loose and soft shapes cultivate a more relaxed mood. Keine’s dedication and discipline were evident. He hand stitched pinstripes and used 42 different materials, some coming from designer pieces like Prada, Walter van Beirendonck and Loro Piana. The greatest reaction to Keine’s work comes from the familiar connections to things you might have seen in the past. Certainly the Victorian details are there in the ruffled sleeves and overcoats, but you might also see Middle Eastern influences as well as elements of Gothic stylings and womenswear. An off-the-shoulder, pastel sweater or a houndstooth blazer is just as charming on the male body as much as the female’s. It doesn’t seem that Keine intentionally tries to make his clothing unisex, but he crafts them with tremendous tailoring and care so that they’d flatter anyone. It just goes to show that quality and craftsmanship conquers all.