For Jamie Wei Huang’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection, the London-based designer took it back to the drawing board. Quite literally, it seems as if her physical collection jumped straight from the pages of her sketchbook. Her collection, shown at London Fashion Week saw grid patterns and more technical drawings, all formed into her signature origami-tailored pieces. Loose denim shifts had frayed edges and denim embroidery. Denim also manifested itself into longer shifts, with detailing of thicker denim stripes sewn into the ruching. Technical chalkstriping was translated into dress versions of the utilitarian jumpsuits, finished with heavier climbing rope. The majority of the pieces were approached with an air of deconstructivism – details were asymmetrically applied and hems were left flowing. On the other hand, Huang also channeled the crispness of a blank canvas, seen in pristine white painter’s shirts and sharply color-blocked skirts.
This all leads back to the designer’s mantra. She starts with color and details, believing materials all have their own languages. With every coming season, she lets her imagination run wild, relying on her fascination in materiality to create visually fascinating pieces that jump to life from the artist’s pages. “All my collections are always based on the same principle” states the designer, “presenting one’s inner self through the collection, creating a story, reflecting the pieces that you choose to put on today.”
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