Edward Crutchley’s showcase for London Collections: Men was a tight, cohesive collection that seemed fit for the most royal (and flamboyant) of athletes. Visually, the color contrast between deeper hues and chalky pastels was a delight—masculine yet showy, they embodied Crutchley’s ideal client. Opulent violet and gold silks sat aside dusty blues and blush. Floral jacquards, British silk satin, and Crepe de Chine were all lush and elegant. Along with embroideries of the Trow Ghyll skeleton on mohair and wool, Crutchley’s influence from his native Yorkshire was plain to see. The artisanal handiwork paid off handsomely, providing a rich and authentic feel to the designer’s fifth collection.
However, juxtaposed against this natural craftsmanship were hand-dyed latex garments. These body-hugging pieces were then laser-cut with the Yorkshireman’s motto using a recognizable Celtic font, evocative of old English texts. Further exploring technology in garment construction, Crutchley partnered with Clo, a 3-D garment visualization software that allowed him to digitally sew and drape flat shapes onto 3-D renders. With exaggeratedly loose blousons and head-turning shorts, Crutchley’s Spring/Summer 2017 season explores contrast, contradiction, tradition, and progressivism in both fashion and English culture.
Photo credit: Willem Jespert
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